Martha’s Vineyard 2022
Martha’s Vineyard : The Vineyard, also known as “the island”, “the rock” or “ The Vineyaaahd” Is truly my second home. The Abbe family, (my late father’s side) has been spending their summers on the island for 5 generations now. The original Abbe home, in Harthaven, just outside Oak Bluffs, was built in 1932 by my great grandmother, Elsie. For summers and generations to come, the Abbes have spent the warm summer months swimming, sailing, hiking, creating art, music and spending quality family time on this magnificent island.
View of Vineyard Haven Harbor
After selling the Abbe home in 2016, many of us have continued the tradition of experiencing a Vineyard summer with our growing families.
When I think back to my childhood, the most amazing memories of family events, sights, smells, tastes, all bring me back to the Vineyard. It undoubtedly is a magical island. You will never be the same, having spent a summer on the Vineyard.
This small island off the coast of Cape Cod has much to offer for family-friendly activities and also romantic couple’s getaways.
There will be many more blog posts about Martha’s Vineyard from me, but let me now share with you our family trip from June 2022.
It was a quite somber trip this time, having recently lost my Dad in early April of 2022. We gathered as family and friends of the Harthaven community to hold a celebration of life for him. We laughed and cried but mostly reminisced of fond, funny family memories. My father’s cousin was lovely enough to let us rent “the big house” in Harthaven. No other place would better suit this occasion, as it was a special place for my Dad growing up. Our first night, the sunset seemed to be on fire and it was astonishing to admire the beauty this island holds. There is no doubt that Papa sent us this sunset.
Fiery Sunset in Harthaven
Here are some highlights from our trip:
- Aquinnah: Aquinnah is by far our favorite beach on the Island. We even named our second daughter Elin Aquinnah! Aquinnah is home to the Wampanoag tribe of indigenous, Native American people. The area is one of the earliest sites of whaling, where the Wampanoag harpooned their catch long before whaling ships were brought to the Vineyard. The land is also referred to as “Gay Head” in reference to its bright, stunning colors of the dramatic clay cliffs. On top of the cliffs you can see the statuesque light house, which is still working. You can take spectacular pictures on top of the newly renovated observation deck. The Martha’s Vineyard public transportation bus takes you directly to the local shops, restaurants and Aquinnah overlook! Don’t miss the opportunity to travel “up-island” to see Aquinnah. Below the cliffs is Moshup beach. There Is a parking fee for the day if you plan on staying at the beach. FYI: full disclosure: The farther you keep walking along the beach, towards the cliffs, it turns into a nude beach. When my husband visited me there for the first time, I guess I forgot to tell him this little bit of information. Nevertheless, it’s great people watching!
The stunning clay cliffs of Aquinnah.
Cliffhangers restaurant (walk-up counter) for ice cream and great bites.
Obligatory family photo on the observation deck at Aquinnah.
The kids and I love to shop for goodies at the stores along the way up to the overlook area. There is an ice cream shop, great sweatshirts, t-shirts, and our favorite: The Wampam jewerly!
- Menemsha: Also known as “up-island” is a quaint fishing village located in the town of Chilmark. Menemsha, meaning “still water” has a lovely marina with many fishing boats and recreational watercrafts. It Is home to Larsen’s Fish Market, Menemsha Fish Market, Menemsha Blues clothing and the Galley- for great ice cream with a view!
Though the water may be frigid here in Menemsha, it has never stopped my kids from swimming! In the beach area between the jetties, the water is crystal clear. You never know what kind of crab, lobster or even flounder you could see with a snorkel mask on! It’s also home to the best sunset on the island. Islanders have made a tradition of packing a dinner to-go or getting chowder, a lobster roll and some wine to celebrate the sunset.
Our daughters relaxing on the jetty in Menemsha, (which was the sight of my parent’s engagement in 1986) and the twins snuggled close on the lifeguard tower.
- Oak Bluffs: Oak Bluffs is an extraordinary town, rich in history and culture. It is home to the Campground, or Gingerbread cottages, fantastic shopping along circuit ave, dining and many classic Vineyard events such as the annual August fireworks in Ocean Park and Illumination night among the ginger bread cottages.
The first thing you might notice about Oak Bluffs is it’s unique style of architecture in which the homes resemble Ginger Bread cottages straight out of a fairy tale! The homes are painted intricately with shades of pepto-pink, baby blue and key lime green. The original purpose of the campground, where the cottages are built, was to host a meeting area for local Methodists. As these meetings of people and families grew in number, they quickly outgrew the tents that they stayed in. Construction of the Ginger Bread homes began just after 1864. It’s quite easy to get lost while navigating the streets of the cottages and it makes for great, free, family entertainment on a cloudy afternoon.
“The Pink House” at 25 Butler Avenue, Oak Bluffs, is one of the most well-known cottages.
-Swimming
The Inkwell is one of the best beaches on the island, in my opinion. The water is usually tame with little to no waves, and the visibility around the jetties makes for great striped bass sightings! The Inkwell beach even hosts morning beach yoga sessions for early birds. The beach is easily accessible and has benches along the sidewalk, perched on top of the small bluff, for excellent views of the Nantucket Sound. I have many childhood memories of snorkeling by the jetties with my father at the Inkwell beach.
Another great spot to swim right in the town of Oak Bluffs is just north of the ferry dock. Our family has named it “ferry boat beach.” There is a long, fishing pier, that is perfectly suited for family-friendly bridge jumping :)
James and Lily, about to brave their first jump off of the pier.
My four daughters, with a great view of the ferry docking in Oak Bluffs.
- Nancy’s Restaurant: Ever since I can remember, we’ve been coming to Nancy’s for dinner. Nancy’s is family owned since 1960 and is a classic Vineyard hot spot to dine. You can choose to dine outside, which is what we usually do, or inside which has a little fancier ambiance. Favorite menu Items: Chicken Kebab sandwich, and their tuna melt. You must not skip out on a freshly made cocktail along the harbor at Donovan’s Reef, (connected to Nancy’s. ) Not ordering a Dirty Banana cocktail should be illegal, it’s that tasty!
CHEERS! ( With a Dirty Banana and a rum cocktail) at Donovan’s Reef, Nancy’s
- Mocha Motts. A staple vineyard establishment since 1994. I remember many mornings , while working in restaurants in town, meeting up with friends to share a morning cup of coffee and breakfast sandwich, reminiscing of the shenanigans from the night before . Now, my kids want to go in every morning for hot cocoa! Behind the counter you can see familiar faces from years ago. This truly is the island’s best coffee! They have a great selection of pastries, breakfast sandwiches and gluten-free options as well. Don’t forget to grab a Mocha Motts bumper sticker or coffee mug !
The kiddos enjoying their hot cocoa underneath the Mocha Motts sign.
Inside the coffee shop with no line, a rarity in the summer months!
- The Flying Horses Carousel. Established in 1884, it is the nation’s oldest platform carousel. Rides cost: $3.50/ per ride. Old or young, this carousel is magical for everyone! As you turn round and round and start to feel woozy, you are encouraged to reach out and grab rings from the long arm or ring dispenser. The conductor makes an announcement after the old rag-time song is done playing, that the brass ring has been dispensed in the line, be the lucky one to grab it and win a free ride! This was the utmost exciting thing as a child, to get the brass ring and to stay on the carousel for your free ride! We must have spent about 50$ this go around for our kids who couldn’t get enough! (All 5 of them caught the brass ring this trip.)
The girls outside the flying horses carousel and Elsie, showing off her brass ring!
-Suggested family dining in Oak Bluffs:
Giordano’s: A classic, family establishment for over 80 years! Specializing in Italian dishes, seafood, and the best slice of pizza on the island!
Dilly’s Taqueria: Located inside the Ritz Café on Circuit Avenue, Dilly’s is another family-owned island establishment. Grab some tacos, empanadas and street corn to - go and enjoy some family time in Ocean park!
Coop De Ville- Located on the harbor in Oak Bluffs. Enjoy craft beer, a raw bar and plenty of family favorites while admiring the harbor front.
Noman’s- Located just south of Oak Bluffs town, this place has it all. Equipped with lawn games, live music, craft beer and cocktails, lobster rolls to acai bowls- Noman’s is sure to be a hit with the entire family.
- Edgartown: Known for its stately, well preserved , white , colonial homes. Edgartown was once an old whaling port. The town still hosts many yachting and sailing events in its beautiful, sprawling harbor. Here you can find fine dining, boutique shopping and feel like you’ve stepped back in time with Edgartown’s charming, New England scenery.
- Edgartown Harbor: walk along the harbor directly downtown, grab an ice cream cone and admire the many yachts docked for the night (or summer.) Take a walk up the steps at Edgartown Memorial Wharf. There, you can watch the “On Time” small car ferry going back and forth to Chappaquiddick Island and also have a great view of Edgartown Lighthouse.
- The Seafood Shanty: This has been one of my favorite restaurants since I was a kid. It was always such a treat to eat outside on the rooftop deck. The view is unmatched. You can see countless, classic sailboats meandering about the harbor and catch a lovely sunset. The Shanty also has music and dancing on summer weekend nights.
- Morning Glory Farm: Located just outside of the downtown area of Edgartown. This 60 acre farm grows fruits and vegetables for the whole island to enjoy. They have scrumptious baked goods, decadent dressings and seasonings, fresh dairy products, soups and sandwiches. I can’t forget to mention just how happy you’ll be upon entering, walking by their always bright and vibrant flower display. There are sometimes hay rides through the fields for the kids to enjoy and some small festivals and events are held there seasonally. This is a great idea for a gloomy day activity for kids.
Enjoying some treats and relaxing at Morning Glory Farm.
The Beautiful flower bouquets lined up at the farm stand entrance.
Suggested family dining in Edgartown:
Quarterdeck restaurant: Take-out only, grab some fries, chowder and fried clams and head up to the Edgartown Memorial Wharf for dinner with a view!
Behind the Bookstore: With an enchanting garden, this gem is indeed nestled behind the Edgartown bookstore. Dine Al Fresco and enjoy specialty lattes and enticing delicacies.
Edgartown Diner: For nostalgic Americana fare, grab a bite before or after seeing a family movie at the Edgartown Cinema.
- Hiking Menemsha Hills: The trailhead can be found at Trustees Ln, Chilmark, MA 02535. This hike is family friendly and leads you out to two different vistas of the Vineyard sound and the Elizabeth Islands, nestled up to tan, dramatic sand dunes. Hiking the entire loop is just over 3 miles total. The terrain is very easy to navigate with children. The kids loved this hike and were happy to take pictures in the same places I have pictures of myself that my parents took of me there :)
The stunning beauty of Menemsha Hills.
- The Jaws Bridge: Located at 267-125 Seaview Ave, Edgartown. Also, formally named, The American Legion Memorial Bridge. This bridge became a landmark after appearing in the 1975 film, Jaws, which was filmed on the island. People old and young jump from the bridge into the brackish water and exit by climbing up the jetty’s rocks. It’s an adventurous, invigorating, extremely memorable photo op on your visit to the Vineyard. They even sell T-shirts saying, “I jumped off the Jaws bridge!” (With a great white shark in the picture of course.) This summer, both of our oldest daughters, ages 6 and 7 jumped for the first time!
James, a seasoned jumper, leaping off the highest railing at the Jaws Bridge!
Elin and I after she jumped for the first time. Can you tell the water was cold?!
Our brave girl, Lily, during one of her numerous jumps, with my cousin in the water, waiting for the kids to safely exit.
There will be many, many more blog posts about the Vineyard, this was just scraping the surface. Seeing my kids grow up and do all things Vineyard is like reliving my own childhood and brings me so much joy. This is a great destination for families and I encourage everyone to experience this magical island. When I close my eyes at night and try to think calm, happy thoughts, Martha’s Vineyard is what I think about. I leave a piece of my soul there every time I leave the island and when I return, I am whole again.
